Industry News
Julia Roberts to become face of Lancome for 2010.
“The news represents a major move by the brand, since this will be Roberts’ first-ever beauty campaign in an industry that has just recently been able to attract real Hollywood ‘big shots,’ with recent examples including Demi Moore who just launched a YouTube campaign for Helena Rubinstein’s Wanted fragrance.
“By her remarkable personality and career, Julia Roberts is an emblematic woman of her time,” Youcef Nabi, president of Lanco?me International, told WWD. “Her exceptional talent, her radiance and her strong commitments perfectly echo Lanco?me’s values. We are convinced she will embody the brand in the most sublime way possible.”
Roberts will be the label’s “global ambassadress” – more details are to be released early next year.” Source:The Independent, Friday 4th December 2009
Health & Beauty: Testing the Lipstick Index By Elaine Wong
Shortly after the 9/11 attacks, Leonard Lauder, Este?e Lauder’s CEO, coined the term “Lipstick Index” when he observed that sales of the item rose as the economy sank. A few years on, the theory seems a bit flawed—lipstick sales only rose 2.5 percent last year while foundation sales jumped 15 percent per Nielsen Co. Perhaps “Foundation Index” would work better, but another factor Lauder didn’t foresee was a downscaling of the type of cosmetics women would be buying during a downturn.
In general, women seem to be abandoning the high-end department store brands, for “masstige,” a mix of “mass” and “prestige.” They are also forgoing visits to the salon in favor of coloring their hair at home and consumers in general seem to value taking care of their health over paying top dollar to look good. Consumer packaged goods companies were quick to note the shift. P&G, for instance, dug further into the masstige category with Olay Pro-X last fall to accommodate consumers who were trading down.
A starter kit for the dermatologist-backed line— which consists of an age repair lotion, wrinkle smoothing cream and eye restoration complex—goes for $61.50 at Wal-Mart. (By contrast, a bottle of Este?e Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Recovery Complex alone sells for $48.50.) Pro-X is a hit—P&G treasurer Teri List said during an April earnings call that it’s claimed 5 percent of the market,“comparable in size to some of the entire brand franchises we compete with,” she says.
SK-II, another premium-priced P&G skin care brand, also increased “high single digits,” the company said during its third quarter earnings report. Much of that growth stemmed from “innovation in facial treatment essences.” Smaller rival Alberto Culver, meanwhile, upped ad spend by 14.5 percent in its second quarter, largely behind its Nexxus and Tresemme masstige brands. Both brands posted solid “continued growth,” the company said, as consumers seek more affordable, salon-level options.
Another winner: At-home hair coloring kits. Mintel analyst Krista Faron expects the trend to continue, driven by consumers’ demand for do-it- yourself, at home options as opposed to hitting the spa or salon. One of the products that fit this need was P&G’s Clairol Perfect 10. Introduced in 2008, the product promised 10-minute, mess free hair coloring. P&G has since expanded it to include 24 total shades.“At home hair coloring is considered somewhat inconvenient and time-consuming, but this product turned that paradigm around,” Faron says, adding that the recession further fueled sales. Perfect 10 currently has about $35 million in sales, per IRI data ending April 19, which does not include Wal-Mart figures.
Those bright spots, however, obscure the ugly state of the industry right now. P&G’s third quarter net beauty sales, for instance, fell 9 percent to $4.3 billion. Rivals like Este?e Lauder and Revlon, which sell the bulk of their wares in department stores, are also hurting. The former saw first quarter revenue slide 2.7 percent to $303.3 million. And Este?e Lauder, which is reeling from a 70 percent drop in third quarter profits, is now experimenting with helping shoppers find deals at the counter. (Product prices are usually revealed only when asked.) Undeterred, marketers of more prosaic items, like toothpaste, are continuing to innovate. In April, Colgate-Palmolive attempted to expand the usage occasions for toothbrushing with Wisp, a single-use brush/toothpaste that contains a bead of “freshness” in the middle.
Colgate marketed the item as a sort of enhanced gum or mint for twentysomethings who were hitting the clubs. Ali Dibadj, a senior analyst with Sanford C. Bernstein, said the product leverages the same “encapsulation” technology found in Colgate’s Max Fresh with Mouthwash Beads toothpaste. This “beads of stuff with other stuff in it” combination add a bit of a “timing factor” to the product, he says. (Ads for Colgate Wisp say, “Just brushed clean, anytime, anywhere.”) Colgate rival P&G, continues to hone its Crest Whitestrips brand with Advanced Seal, which promises to adhere to teeth more strongly than its predecessor, Crest Whitestrips.
The push, which began in January, has a strong social media component involves an application where users can instantly “whiten” their smile. In July, Crest will also kick off an integrated campaign for its Pro-Health Enamel Shield product, which “protects against acid attacks by restoring minerals to weakened enamel spots,” its Web site reads. Women’s health expert Dr. Donnica Moore serves as brand spokesperson. Marketing for Crest will focus on offering consumers “regimens of products [that] deliver oral health care solutions that meet their needs,” Brinker said. Which may all bode well, according to new data from Catalina.
The behavior-based marketing services firm found that consumers, while recession-weary, are adopting a more proactive health approach. Sales of nutritional supplements grew by 12.6 percent on a unit purchase basis, while vitamins/minerals and calcium supplements increased by 9.4 and 7.7 percent, respectively. Are consumers deciding they’d rather feel good than look good? Perhaps in coming years vitamins will edge out lipstick as the key barometer for economic health during a recession.. Source: Brand Week.com 6/8/2009
Blurring the Lines Between Health and Beauty—Top Five Cosmeceuticals Trends to Watch
Edible Beauty
It’s no secret that a healthy diet is the foundation to a more beautiful you. But now, there are products that promise to jump start this transformation with a pill, bottled drinks, even gummy bears! Companies like Glowelle, Borba and Perricone have captured this trend with innovative ingestibles promising cosmetic results (nutriceuticals). Look for more companies, including food and beverage, as well as traditional beauty companies to launch new nutriceuticals. I Love You Man Scruffy and dirty out! Clean and groomed…definitely in! Men have heard this message loud and clear and now are purchasing personal care products in droves. In fact, in a report published by the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) in 2007, the fastest growing segment in the bath and body care category was men’s personal care. This creates a tremendous amount of opportunity in the cosmeceuticals arena. Men have been slow to join the beauty party, but they are definitely here now. Education and clever advertising will be the key to reaching this male consumer.
Beauty at Every Price Point
It stands to reason that cosmeceuticals require a lot of science and research to produce an efficacious product. This type of science and ingredients can be expensive so it makes sense that many cosmeceuticals are situated at the premium end of the market—think La Prairie’s $200 anti- aging cream. However, mega-companies like P&G are making these types of coveted products more attainable to the everyday consumer in the mass market with products such as Olay Regenerist. More and more lower-cost alternatives are sure to hit the masstige channels.
Regulations in the Future
There are clear cut rules and guidelines for manufacturing and advertising drugs compared to cosmetics where there are a lot less. Even more confusing and ambiguous are those for cosmeceuticals. Living as somewhat of a hybrid, cosmeceuticals are difficult to classify. The tightening of government regulations for product claims and safety testing are definitely on the horizon. This could prove to be problematic for smaller manufacturers who might not be able to afford costly mandatory testing. But for now, savvy smaller companies can take advantage of the loose restrictions.
Fountain of Youth
Baby Boomers are not the only ones concerned about reversing or at least suspending the signs of aging. People are living longer than ever before and the Generation X and Y’s are spending their disposable income on products promising anti-aging results also. Even the youngest among us are being pampered by their parents with cosmeceutical baby products like sunscreens with special actives. Huge opportunities exist across all age demographics as R&D departments come up with products for people of all ages. The sky is the limit!
Source: www.insidecosmeceuticals.com
- Professional Beauty Show, London Excel, 7 – 8th March 2010
The trade only show aimed at professionals working across all aspects of the industry will be in London Excel on the 7th and 8th March. For more information visit www.professionalbeauty.co.uk - Beauty UK Show, NEC, 25 – 26th April 2010 Trade only beauty show with free entrance to people working within the industry. Visit www.beautyserve.com for more details.
- Holistic Health Show, NEC, 25 – 26th April 2010 Trade only beauty show with free entrance to people working within the industry. Visit www.beautyserve.com for more details.
- Glasgow gets its first luxury Spa One of Glasgow’s most famous and historical buildings has been transformed into a luxurious five star hotel, housing Glasgow’s first luxury Spa, complete with indigenous Scottish treatments.
Blythswood Square, formerly headquarters to the Royal Scottish Automobile Club, has been redeveloped by Scotland’s luxury boutique hotel group The Town House Collection, designed to “capture the glamour of a bygone era whilst showcasing the latest in designer styling as befits this vibrant and sociable city.” Guests at The Spa at Blythswood Square can indulge in bespoke natural treatments using Scottish Thistle extract, Scottish seaweed and a selection of treatments from Anne Semonin and ila. The Spa is also home to Glasgow’s only Seaweed Bath chamber, filled with healing organic seaweed sources from the Hebrides. Source: Beautyserve.com
Anti-ageing facial ritual unveiled
Germaine de Capuccini gathered skin specialists and distributors in the European Training Convention in Barcelona recently to demonstrate a new application method for anti-ageing facial treatments. The Kirei Method is an exclusive and innovative professional work ritual, inspired by the Japanese facial massage and Kobido, which achieves a preventive anti-ageing action and a sensational relaxation of the body and the mind. The company also used the occasion to showcase the new Spa therapies from the Sperience Nature Mediterranean line, the anti-wrinkle line Timexpert Rides and the new Ecocert-certified organic line Naturae. Source: beautyserve.com
New legislation for Scotland
Tanning operators in Scotland need to ensure they comply with the new Public Health Sunbed legislation, which comes into force today. From the 1st December 2009, all tanning operators in Scotland must conform to the new regulations as cited in The Public Heath etc. (Scotland) Act 2008 (Sunbed) Regulations 2009. On the spot fines are now applicable to the following offences:
- Allowing a person under 18 to use a sunbed;
- Allowing a person to use a sunbed without supervision;
- Failure to provide prescribed information to sunbed users;
- Failure to display information notice containing prescribed information;
- Intentionally obstructing an officer in entering and inspecting premises;
- Failure to comply with a requirement for the production of records and information;
- Failure to provide the name and address of the operator of the premises.
The key changes require the operator to display prescribed notices and provide to each sunbed user prescribed information. For further information on what the prescribed notices and information should say and how they should be presented, contact your local council for more help and advice. Source: beautyserve.com
Aromatherapy company team up with Dove
Dove Spa, sister company to Dove, have teamed up exclusively with British aromatherapy company Tisserand to create seasonal aromatherapy treatments for the Spa. Starting with ‘Detox’ for the New Year, Tisserand have created a blend of essential oils to target the winter concerns of reducing toxins and toning and purifying the skin. From January through to March, guests will be able to experience the first of Dove Spa’s seasonal treatments.
Source: beautyserve.com
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